Archive for: General

By Treve Ring – Treve is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveler. Her work appears in publications around the globe. A certified sommelier, WSET diploma holder, French wine scholar and instructor, and Sherry instructor, she is based on Vancouver Island, Canada, though is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard.

You definitely do not need a reason to drink fizz, though the holidays certainly gives you ample opportunity and availability to fill your glass with bubbles. We’re fortunate that sparkling wine production has skyrocketed across British Columbia in the past few years, with producers creating sparkling stars across all styles and grapes.

What makes a great sparkling wine? It’s almost too simple to be true, but it starts with a great base wine, one that achieves appropriate ripeness of fruit while holding onto brisk acidity. This provides the wine with the needed intensity and structure to transform into fizz. We’re fortunate in BC to have the conditions for just that: concentrated warmth for a ripe core, and cool conditions and a sizable diurnal shift to preserve acidity.

Rooted in cool, Canada has emerged an indie darling of sparkling wine (we do share the 49th parallel with Champagne, after all). Within Canada, sparkling wine sales outpace total wine sales at +7.1% vs +4.7%. That said, Canadian-made sparkling wines account for 3-4% share of all Canadian wine, a clear sign (to me at least) that the potential future for sparkling wine is sparkling.

BC leads the country with nearly 75 wineries producing sparkling wines, and approximately 40 of those are using the traditional method, the same painstaking method used in Champagne production.

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gamay Noir, Gewurztraminer, Ortega, Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Shiraz are the most common grapes, illustrating that when it comes to bubbles, there is no limit. From fun and frizzante (lightly sparkling) through to ageworthy and serious, there are wines to suit all tastes, occasions and budgets.

In this year’s Best of BC Wine Country Awards, Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Brut sparkled the greatest, selected from nearly 2000 voters as their favourite sparkling wine overall, and their top from the Okanagan Valley. Kelowna’s family-founded and operated Summerhill has become almost as known for their sparkling wines as for their iconic pyramid on the property, with Cipes being their hallmark fizz. A BC classic, and original, this traditional method fizz is made from organic Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, and is full of fresh orchard fruit and light toast on a lively, dry palate.

Illustrating the category’s diversity, Chardonnay was the only shared factor between the Okanagan’s top bubble and the Similkameen’s. Corcelette Estate Winery’s Santé is an off-dry fizz of Viognier, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, fresh and fun, and in a crown-cap ready for your immediate enjoyment.

Backyard Vineyards Blanc de Noir Brut took the top spot for the Fraser Valley, showing that the traditional method and Pinot Noir grape work very well together here in BC. Full of light red berries and ample toasty spice, this is a great match for local salmon. It’s also great to see that the Fraser Valley is paying serious attention to serious sparkling production, and hopefully they will inspire more to the same.

From one traditional Champagne grape (Pinot Noir) to another (Chardonnay) and the Emerging Regions top bubble, Harper’s Trail Sparkling Chardonnay. Mirroring the striking freshness that Kamloops can achieve, this sparkling wine was given no dosage (additional sugar at bottling) to preserve the region’s bright fruitiness. Dry and refreshing, this carries a lot of citrus and green apple notes.

Vancouver Island certainly knows a lot about freshness – sometimes too much freshness. Averill Creek plays off the Island’s maritime-influenced acidity with ample time on the lees and in wood for complexity in their Averill Creek Vineyard 2010 Brut. Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris were barrel fermented and aged on the lees in French oak for 1 year prior to secondary fermentation and 3.5 years in the bottle before disgorging and bottling.

Numerous other fizz were recognized with Honorable mentions: Noble Ridge The One, Blue Mountain Estate Winery Brut, Intrigue Wines I Do, Orofino Winery Muscat Frizzante and Enrico Winery Celebration all garnered multiple votes. It really shows the diversity and potential for all sparkling styles, grapes and regions in this province. We should all toast to that! And enjoy your holiday season.

By Kurtis Kolt – Kurtis Kolt is a Vancouver-based freelance wine consultant, writer, and competition judge. Certified by London’s Wine & Spirit Education Trust and the Court of Master Sommeliers, his enthusiasm and experience have resulted in many high-profile appearances, from being the subject of a Wine Enthusiast magazine profile and appearing at New York’s James Beard House, to leading wine festival seminars and beyond. Catch him at KurtisKolt.com.

There’s a certain element of democracy in the wine industry, in that it’s the people who hold much of the power. While wineries and regions are always free to pursue their own style, if things aren’t selling, you can bet they’ll change. When we look at broader trends in the world of wine, from the oft-swinging pendulum of oak levels, to the skyrocketing success of both the sparkling and pink wine categories, these are the results of consumer desire and demand.

The consumer’s opinion holds a lot of sway, so any savvy industry player is wise to keep engaged with their thoughts and actions. Recently, the British Columbia Wine Institute held the Best of BC Wine Country Awards, where wine enthusiasts of all stripes voted on their favourite wines and experiences over a period of four weeks to the tune of almost 2000 votes in total.

Now that the season’s first snow has fallen on much of B.C. wine country, there seems no better time to tuck into some local reds. Let’s look at those that rose to the top in each regional category.

Painted Rock Estate Winery Red Icon 2014 – Okanagan Valley

It takes guts to call your wine ‘Icon,’ but proprietor John Skinner knew his estate vineyard on the Skaha Bench would lend itself darn well to what has become a – yup – iconic British Columbian ode to Bordeaux. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon all show in fine form, whether for immediate consumption, or for an excellent Christmas gift that can be cellared for five or more years with ease.

Orofino Winery Scout Vineyard Syrah 2016 – Similkameen Valley

The rugged, windswept Similkameen Valley is known as the organic agriculture capital of Canada due to its extremely dry conditions. It’s also home to plenty of hot, beaming sunshine throughout the summer, a high level of calcium carbonate in the soil lending well to wines with great mineral character, plus a broad diurnal temperature swing allowing natural acidity and excellent structure. All of those things come into play with John and Virginia Weber’s Scout Vineyard Syrah, which is chock-full of meaty, peppery blackberries and charm. Syrah’s quickly becoming one of the most acclaimed varieties in B.C., this example shows why.

Backyard Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2015 – Fraser Valley

While Backyard Vineyards is located in the Fraser Valley on the outskirts of Vancouver, the fruit here is sourced in the Okanagan Valley, where Cabernet Franc thrives. Outside of France’s Loire Valley and bits and bobs around Napa, California, seeing a single-variety wine made from the grape is a rarity. It’s quite possible we’ll see British Columbia casting a brighter light on Cabernet Franc, as our local examples burst with freshness, including ripe, delicious red fruit and a dusting of hallmark wild sagebrush seen dotted around the landscape.

Enrico Winery Cabernet Foch 2015 – Vancouver Island

We don’t get the heat units on Vancouver Island to properly ripen classic big, red varieties like we do in the Okanagan or Similkameen. At the same time, there’s a desire to have hyper-local, juicy reds – so it’s necessary to broaden our scope. Enter Cabernet Foch, a grape variety created by Switzerland-based grape breeder Valentin Blattner, when he crossed the richness and sturdy character of Cabernet Sauvignon with the cool-climate hardiness of Marechal Foch. The result is an herbal, savoury wine ready for rich, wintery stews.

Fort Berens Estate Winery Meritage 2014 – Emerging Regions

The ‘Emerging Region’ in question here is Lillooet, B.C., about a two-hour drive northeast of Whistler; that’s where this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is made. A quintessential British Columbian wine, the fruit here is sourced from Lillooet, the Okanagan Valley and the Similkameen Valley – think of it as a provincial highlight reel. A dark and brooding red ready for a host of grilled meats, this ain’t a shy wine, which is probably why so many have taken notice.

Best of BC Wine Country honours the best in BC cuisine

By Joanne Sasvari – Joanne is a food, drink and travel writer who contributes to Postmedia publications, Destination BC and WestJet Magazine, and is the author of the forthcoming Wickaninnish Inn and Vancouver Eats cookbooks.

Wine country is more than just a sip of Semillon or Syrah. It is a way of life, a celebration of all the pleasures of the table, of lively conversation, generous hospitality and fine food, as well as the liquid in our glass.

And so we raise that glass to the culinary winners of the Best of BC Wine Country Awards.

Even though the Okanagan Valley has long been BC’s orchard, it was only recently that it became a foodie destination. The wine came first; the chefs followed, drawn by the extraordinary quality of the local produce. Now visitors can enjoy terrific wine country dining experiences from Vernon to Osoyoos, Vancouver Island to the Kootenays.

Many of them made the Best of BC Wine Country Awards. Nearly 2,000 consumers cast their votes over four weeks, and of those, 30 per cent voted on multiple wine regions. Clearly, wine lovers like to get out and about, and they’re hungry for delicious new experiences. Here are the winners that best satisfied their appetite.

Best Winery Restaurant: Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery

The Stewart family has been growing grapes here in West Kelowna for three generations, so by now they have a pretty good idea of what they’re doing. Just over a decade ago, their smart idea was putting Chef Roger Sleiman in charge of their restaurant. Since then he has quietly been cooking up top-notch local ingredients in an approach he calls “fresh simplicity.” As a result, the food on the plate is as spectacular as the view from the dining room; plus it pairs seamlessly with winemaker Nikki Callaway’s elegant wines.

Honourable mention: Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards; Liquidity Bistro at Liquidity Wines.
Other region winners: Unsworth Vineyards; Crowsnest Vineyard; Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de Chaberton; and The Kitchen at Fort Berens Estate Winery.

Best Restaurant Showcasing Local Foods: RauDZ Regional Table

Sourcing local has been chef Rod Butters’ mission since long before it was fashionable. He had the first restaurant rooftop herb garden in Vancouver in the early 1990s, built a network of farmers and fishers at Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn a few years later, and in the Okanagan has discovered a whole valley full of local delights that end up in the kitchen at RauDZ. From bacon to beets to blackberries, if it grows here, he finds some delicious new way to serve it.

Honourable mention: Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery; Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards; Liquidity Bistro at Liquidity Wines.
Other region winners: Unsworth Vineyards; Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de Chaberton; The Kitchen at Fort Berens Estate Winery and Grist Mill and Gardens.

Best Local Food Product: Poplar Grove Cheese
Say cheese! Wine lovers adore their fromage, and they have plenty to choose from in BC wine country. Their favourite? Poplar Grove, a boutique cheesery owned by Gitta Pederson and nestled amid the vineyards on the Naramata Bench. Swing by the tasting room and sample cheesemaker Louise Pearson’s truffly, creamy Okanagan Double Cream Camembert, complexly earthy Harvest Moon Washed Rind, mild Naramata Bench Blue and the rich, intense, mouthwateringly salty Tiger Blue.

Honourable mention: Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan Inc.; cheese from Upper Bench Winery & Creamery.

Other region winners: Little Qualicum Cheeseworks cranberry pepper cream cheese; Harker’s Fruit Stand organic tomatoes; Vista D’oro jams; pork loin from Spray Creek Ranch in Lillooet.

Best Overall Culinary Experience: Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
It’s not just the food. It starts with that view, sweeping up and down the valley, over the rolling vineyards and the lake sparkling below. It continues in the tasting room, where thoughtful staff lead guests through the crisp whites, delicate Pinot Noirs and irresistible rosé. And then the experience moves on to the dining room, elegant and understated, surrounded by gardens and that breathtaking view. Here chef Sleiman prepares farm-to-table fare – think roast pork chop with Tiger Blue cheese or herb gnocchi and squash in sage butter – with the understated finesse that earned Old Vines a spot on the list of Canada’s top 100 restaurants.

Honourable mention: Vanilla Pod Restaurant at Poplar Grove Winery; Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards;

Other region winners: Orofino Winery dinner series in the Similkameen Valley; Enrico Winery on Vancouver Island; The Kitchen at Fort Berens Estate Winery.
Other region honorable mentions: Benja Thai in Keremeos, Similkameen Valley; The Terrace at Monte Creek Ranch Winery.